and relies on picking #1 to match with #2. "Old school" open baffle design does not use #3.
but that depends on #2 also (if you drive rhas a big peak in the bass, then maybe a "not crazy big" baffle will be enough to get the right bass level. Getting the right amount of bass can be hard using number 1 alone (ie. how much the speaker driver is helping or hindering the bass level depends on the driver. This could also be using an amplifier which has a peak in the bass. Some sort of correction filter to the signal (like a crossover filter does) to push the mid and treble down (ie. giving you back (some of) the missing bassģ. Properties of the speaker driver itself may place a peak in the bass. The narrower the baffle the more bass goes missing (ie. and these things all work in combination with each others.ġ. it will not have enough bass, and so things need to be done to correct the amount of bass. When you put a speaker on an open baffle. Open baffle speakers can have the correct amount of frequency response flatness (including the right amount of bass) if designed correctly. I’d love advice on baffle dimensions to get the most out of all frequencies Thanks SNA brains trust!! See below some examples of simple designs I like. If you have designs for suitable boxed enclosures I’d also be interested to hear. There are some 8 inch drivers available but I could hold out for 10 or 12. Please don’t recommend adding a tweeter or a sub unless you can direct me to available crossovers to match-as said, I’ll be lost otherwise. I only paid $250 for a McChanson amp from an SNA member, so I’m only looking at accessibly priced drivers and the Richard Allans tick that box and seem to get praised although they don’t seem to be widely discussed. I know a woodworker who can handle the timber side, and if the rest is just mounting a single driver to plug and play, I’m home and hosed. Hence I love the plug and play approach with full range drivers.
I’ve learned about myself that I know nothing about crossovers or even finding the right crossover for a project so inevitably get tripped before the finish line with multiple driver DIY designs. I’ve seen some Richard Allan full range drivers around and am considering having an open baffle design made and I’d love advice on baffle dimensions to get the most out of all frequencies, timber type and treatment that can help or hinder acoustics and where on the baffle to place the driver. I just got my first ‘flea watt’ valve amp and understand I need efficient, sensitive speakers to go with the amp.
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